Mission Ladakh: Wild rendezvous with Mother Nature

1^st June: Delhi to Jalandhar: A straight ride of 375 km. City roads. Pollution and just cement views. Proved beneficial as helped us forming the proper group and move in a rally. Left from India gate and caught lots of attention of the passerby and bystanders. After topping up fuel, there was no stopping. The firing of 30 27 bullets filled the air and one couldn't not hear anything except it. Soon we got out of delhi and heading towards karnal. Stopped at karan lake for lunch. The first group lunch in the trip helped us knowing each other better. Sumptous lunch was putting us to sleep. But had a long way to go. Also got the first puncture of the trip and manoj got to work immediately. Few of us got separated from others and we were moving more in parts than as one. Reached jalandhar by 9 just hour before curfew starts. Checked into the hotel and took a must needed bath. Tired everybody came to have dinner. Post dinner, small briefing for the next day by vinod and parmesh adn instructions for leaving early morning towards patnitop.

A sea-side luxury: Highland beach resort

Goa on wheels: 350 cc hits the road as well as water

Visiting candolim beach often presents one with the same sights and sounds. And goa is land of beaches. It made me think about visiting somewhere new. Where the sights are different, the views are different. A thorough research of the goan map revealed querim. The northern tip of goa, situated at the border of Maharashtra. Existence of a fort was also evident there by the name Tiracol motivated me further. The fort had to be reached by means of a ferry across the river of the same name. But the best part of this journey was that I was undertaking it on a beast. Yes, royal Enfield 350 cc 1994 model.
The previous ride to Sultanpur Bird sanctuary on the bullets had enthralled me and I imagined riding the beast myself soon. This was the best time. Goan roads are nice well kept; literally no traffic and I don’t even have to buy a bullet. Just hire it. With some enquires my driver Umesh was able to arrange for a bullet for me and he would come and drop it at candolim. A quick learning about the mechanism for starting (which is quite different from my 100 cc platina) I started my ride towards querim.
Finding petrol pumps in goa is like searching for fishes in the desert. Because there is no petrol pump virtually anywhere except bigger places like panjim, margaon or mapusa. The only alternative was to buy bottled petrol from the many houses on the way; 5 rs being more than the usual rate but the only option (that too with compromised quality). So filling up the tank enough for a comeback I rode further. Soon I reached the countryside of goa. Fresh sir, verdure everywhere, no traffic and the sound of bullet filling the air was truly bliss. And surely would have been any bikers dream. The roads are in an excellent condition even after the amount of rainfall the area gets. This should inspire places like Pune and Mumbai were roads literally get replaced by pot holes during the monsoons. There were small hamlets every now and then attached to which are farms, and they form the livelihood for the habitants.
Our driver had once pointed out that even though when there were more Hindus in goa than Christians there were more churches than temples, the very influence of Portuguese. This was more evident by Siolim church aka St. Anthony’s church built in 1568 and totally neo-gothic style. (It is popular shoot for movies). Stopped by, a quick bow and I moved on further. I crossed the Siolim Bridge across the river Chapora, a beautiful and more importantly a purposeful structure, which replaced the ferry route from siolim to chopdem in 2002. Though it took away the charm of the ferry crossing, but for many saved on precious time. The best part of my ride however was just about to begin.
On crossing the bridge I reached outskirts of chopdem village and almost sooner the Ghats started. Riding a bullet on the ghat stretch is the best deal on can ask for. When 3500cc of engine power generates torque, ascent feels so easy on the third gear. A board indicated the route to morjim but I decide to go straight. When I gained altitude I immediately felt a difference in the temperature and a cool breeze flowing from west. When I turned my head towards the source I could see the vast Arabian Sea parallel to me into its full extent, only being fringed by palms. A few more kilometers, I was now parallel to a serene beach called as Mandrem. Deciding to stop while coming back I rode further. Crossing Ashvem, arambol in succession I reached Querim which I could tell because there was no road ahead but only a water body, Tiracol River. When I enquired, there was some more time for the ferry to come, which would take me and my machine across the river. So with some time in my hand, I gave my camera a quick warm-up with some shots, and I warmed up with a cold beer at Vailankanni bar and restaurant, the only one there. There were some Russian tourists also present there on their bike probably covering the same destination. Soon buses, cars, bikes, people all line up on a ramp to get into the ferry.
Slowly the ferry positioned itself closer to the ramp and everyone climbed onto it, with cars lined on one side and bikes on the other. Soon the engines roared back to life and after a moment of rotational torque we were sailing ahead. Nearby I could see some fisherman involved in their chores. Beyond them were the great Western Ghats lush green and kind of gating the river. Soon I was at the shores of Tiracol village the last village of goa before Maharashtra starts. The road almost instantly snakes up and enters the village. Boards indicating heritage properties dot along the road, making it clear that Tiracol is a big heritage treasure house itself. Soon I saw myself at the gates of brightly painted ochre colored palace, with a name on the gates, Tiracol Fort and heritage hotel
Now managed by nilaya foundation, this fort has been converted into a heritage hotel. Though it looks very compact from outside it house many suites as well as a chapel. The unique part of the fort other than the ochre color is the rooms are named according the name of the days, Sunday, Saturday, etc. The suites are lined on the western part of the fort, whereas in the center stands a statue of Jesus with open arms facing the chapel. Said to have been built in around 1546 the chapel of St. Antonio is open only on selected days and belongs to the Portuguese. As one circles the chapel, stairs lead you to the first level. This gives awesome views of both Arabian Sea as well as Tiracol River. A cool and strong gush of wind hits you as soon as you reach the edge of the fort and face the sea, a take her to the sea moment. A small longue serving continental dishes adorn the other side of the fort and on can relish a good meal at the same. Satisfying myself with the sea views I clambered down and met the office people who enlightened me further about the facilities and kinds of suites available.
On getting out one can immediately spot a large banyan tree with a small commemoration stone beside. The stone remembered the great freedom fighters of goa that bravely fought the Portuguese and for atleast one day were able to take control of the fort. The return journey was just the same, with some part of me not wanting to return back. The ferry was loyally waiting for us the Tiracol side and within minutes I was transported from 1546 to 2009, though important part of my journey was still remaining. Coming to goa and not visiting a beach is like a sin. So I darted first to querim beach, absolutely empty and serene beach. With only few shacks and eateries along the shore, it lacks the crowded nature of goan beaches. Next to the ferry port where the river met the sea is a fishing point, and anyone interested can indulge. Some quick shutters I moved on to Mandrem beach which I had already fell in love with.
I parked the machine on the road next to a coconut water vendor and thanking him by drinking some coconut water. A beautiful landscaped garden welcomed me, and the beach had totally different persona. First a landscaped garden takes you downhill and then you have to cross a wooden bridge in order to reach the sands. Only few people around and mostly foreigners, exemplified that this beach is either undiscovered and is for the people who prefer to stay in peace. A walked quickly along the shores and made a mental not of the shack. Photographing was not really possible as most of the foreigners were enjoying the sun completely without adequate or in fact any cover. So without any offence and quick walk I just clicked some landscapes and left back to my bike to conclude my trip.

A paradise lost: Sultanpur Bird sanctuary

The engines roared to life; the blasting sound filled the air when 22 bikers filled NH-8 on their beasts (as they name it). The vibration from the engines impersonated an earthquake for the insects and reptiles thriving on the roadside. The whole approach looked like a pride of lions marching zeroing their prey. The beasts none other than Royal Enfield of all makes and builds set of for a day trip to Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary.
Scheduled as a general body meeting for team456, the biking group in Delhi included many new comers like me with the veterans and co founders of the team Vinod, Ajith, Tushar etc. After assembling at two different point’s en-route (Pragati Maidan and Gurgaon) we started riding towards Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 45 km from Delhi on NH-15 A (Gurgaon-Farukhnagar Road). With small glitches like losing ways. Punctured tires we carried forward as one pride.
Headlights switched on even in broad daylight; a sign to indicate we all belong to same pack. Guys and gals joined in from all fields and interests but still with one common passion, Biking. Fueled by passion, motivated by the engine sounds we entered the cramped roads of Gurgaon city, where one faces everything from inanimate to animate (dogs to humans) and has to steer clear from all such small/large obstacles.
The city roads with minimal turns, yet maximum traffic soon gave away to the beautiful countryside where we could actually locate clear horizons. Yellow fields of mustard accompanied us throughout route. Although the road was just slightly better than a dirt bike track, the ride was worthwhile.
Within no time we were at the parking of the sanctuary. A complete row of the lot was devoted to our beasts. Exchanging quick chats, securing the helmets we proceeded to the ticket counter. The nominal fees of Rs. 5 for entry, 10 for parking and 25 for camera sounded great. A board on the entrance maps out the whole area and we guessed that the whole park was centered over the Lake which is the party place for the avifauna. Another Board enlists the number of these birds seen, which sounded quite promising. So all gears equipped we strolled forward inside the gate.
The landscape personified a dry habitat, classical autumn. The grass, leaves everything had turned golden. The sun was adding to the color. Dotted in between the tall grasses were small areas of shades and green grass. There we spotted the first wild life. Blue bull, nilgai were spotted. Led by the male there was herd with few spawns too. Grazing, relaxing and chilling could be the words to describe their daily chores. Few clicks we moved ahead when we came to the main attraction of the park. The Sultanpur Lake. This is where the concentration of fauna exists. We could spot a huge flock of Siberian cranes sitting on the center of the lake and occasionally making a flight over the lake in search of food. These birds were huge and beautiful sweeping above the lake resembling a MIG flowing swiftly in the sky. ON the other side we could spot a flock of ducks swimming inside the water but far away from us. We sat there for some time, assimilating the beauty of nature and getting it on the camera.
After sometime we started moving ahead. When we realized the whole park is mapped around the lake in a circular fashion. The sun was also getting strong but which embellished the whole scene. And suddenly someone pointed out that there was a snake. Being an avid her lover I immediately jumped. And at the first look itself I recognized the little one as being a common sand boa. Even though non-poisonous they bite very badly. So with utmost care I used a twig and lifted the chap to observe it closely. After handling it for some time I left it and it wriggled quickly into a nearby crevice. We were now munching chips and strolling ahead to the end of our trip.
In the whole trip, which was actually a general body meeting I met people belonging to different professions, and different fields. But one common passion, riding and travelling. This made the whole trip outstanding.

SAHARIA ORGANIC RESORT: A green Innovation: Oasis in the desert

India is a land of villages. However with the cities flourishing at an exponential rate, the number of villages is on a decline. Remaining villages bathed in industrial revolution, nowadays have all facilities. In this era Saharia Organic resort is an ideal place to witness traditional village life. With inspirational steps in organic farming, rain water harvesting and waste management, Saharia organic resort avails the benefits of ante-global warming strategies.
Sprawling in 18 hectares of cultivated land, saharia organic resort is the conception of Mr. Vinod Saharia (also the owner of tea plantations in Assam). Transforming an arid vast desert into a cultivable land would have been a difficult task, however the outcome is beautiful. More than 10000 species of trees and plants predominated by Amla (Emblica offinalis) thrive in this oasis. In the midst of this sylvan environment lies nestled classically built huts as tourist’s retreat. Initially started as a site for organic farming activities it now encourages people to stay and enjoy the luxuries available in this village setting.
Two mud huts (facing the farms) with thatch roof, attached bathroom (roofless) and plentiful of fresh air welcomes everyone into the village environ. For those who want to stay connected 4 single rooms attached to each other can be taken. All these are powered with solar electricity. The designer keeping in mind with the motto of the resort has built the huts in a very traditional way. Half baked bricks form the skeleton and river silt form the mortar for the walls. This makes the hut a perfect thermal insulator (with warmth inside during winters whereas cool in summers) Layers of silt mixed with cow dung acts as the floor adding up to the aesthetic appearance. The bathroom (roofless) is one of its kinds. Taking bath under an open sky yet in complete privacy usually becomes the cherished moment.
The kitchen, well equipped with conventional firewood Chula adds to the aroma. Share your recipes and learn few native dishes by indulging yourself in cooking with the villagers. Moreover self catering facility in the tiny dining room gives opportunity to interact with the others in the resort. The vegetables used are obtained from the farm having both satiety and qualitative values and thus making this place a self sustained habitat.
One can get into the organically maintained swimming pool and enjoy the afternoon in leisure. An evening stroll in the farm with the ever helpful staff is filled with sights and sounds. With abundance of trees and plants this farm becomes a paradise for birds and birdwatchers alike. Species range from native and migrant as well, including common sparrows, parakeets, robins etc. Exploring around one can get familiar with the principles of vermi compost, liquid manure, natural pesticides and other aspects of organic farming. If enthusiastic and dedicated enough, one can become a WWOOF (Willing worker on organic farming) and help the workers in various chores. One can also enjoy a camel cart ride that can be arranged by telling the very enterprising Mr Lal Singh, the caretaker. Late Evenings are meant to be spent in leisure, relaxing under the setting sun around a bonfire with your near and dear ones.
Overall, Saharia Organic resort transports you to be closer to nature and rich village cultures, the very essence of our beautiful nation.
Navigator
The price factor: As an introductory price, the huts and rooms both are priced at 800 Rs for a day. The meal includes unlimited buffet for Rs 175 per head. No need to tip the workers as 200 Rs is charged for the welfare of the farm workers.
Contact for booking. The caretaker Lal Singh resides in the farm itself and can be contacted on +91-94350-31097 and +91-99830-9226. Reservations at info@sahariaorganicresort.com; official website: www.sahariaorganicresort.com.
Getting there: It is around 300 km from delhi and 22.5 km from jaipur. The easiest way is to reach Chandwaji on NH8 and then turn towards Chomu. From Chomu take the state highway towards jaipur. Around 15 km from chomu there is a JCPL factory. Take the road, surya vatika road exactly in front of the factory gate.

A knot of faith

Navigator
Getting there: Fatehpur sikhri lies 45 kms from Agra which the major railhead as well as Kheria airport connected to Delhi. Private jeeps, taxis take 1 hour to reach Fatehpur sikhri from agra. Public buses running from idgah bus stand agra have regular shuttle service to Fatehpur sikhri starting from morning to late afternoon.
Where to stay: Fatehpur sikhri is a small village encircling the fort remains. Due to this there is lack of any basic accomodation. The best option is to reach Fatehpur sikhri in the morning from Agra and then leave for Agra to stay. Alternatively one can also go to Bharatpur bird sanctuary, also known as Kaladeo National park for a forest rest house.
Places around:
1. Agra 45 km is land of Taj mahal, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. In Agra one can also visit agra fort, which was the red fort during akbar’s reign. One can also shop for marble souvenirs or visit Sikandra the place where Akbar finally rested.
2. Bharatpur bird sanctuary 30 km under the Kaladeo National park is the house for many migratory as well as residential birds of India and usually can be included in your Itenery to Fatehpur Sikhri.
Jami Masjid
Leaving behind his royal comforts Akbar marched miles with his queens and men, to the abode of Sufi Saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, A small desert cavern on the ridge in the Sikhri village 26 miles from Agra the then functioning mogul capital. The only wish Akbar the great had was to have an heir to his kingdom. This was fulfilled as of Salim (aka Jahangir) by the blessings of Salim Chishti, the descendant of Moinuddin Chishti. Deeply gratified, Akbar decided to build a city with a mosque, palaces, baths, gardens etc. But Salim Chishti passed away in 1571. So Akbar built a tomb initially with Redstone and later in marble in the center of the mosque.
Sheikh Salim Chishti Ki mazar as it is commonly known now is a reverend place for all religions alike. People with variety of wishes, some for health, wealth, heir, etc come to the mazar for blessing as Akbar came years back. Only difference is that Akbar walked all the way and now people drive till Fatehpur sikhri, hire a guide and enter the mazar and provide hundreds of people of the village a way of living. A beautifully constructed marble mausoleum facing south towards Buland darwaza, Jamat Khana, Badshahi darwaza, Zanana Rauza and ablution tank together with the pillars facades and domes comprise of what is called as Jami Masjid (Friday mosque).
Buland darwaza to the south is the one of the largest gates in Asia, and serves as the main entrance to the mosque. Built on the highest point of the ridge it is a perfect Islamic creation with octagonal arranged triple storied gate bordered by decorative panels and inscriptions. Badshahi Darwaza or the royal entrance was reserved for the royal folks during prayers. It faces east towards Agra and is less glamorous than Buland darwaza. Jamat Khana is the assembly hall and now houses a group of 24 graves of various Sufi saints. The mosque itself explicitly describes to be an Islamic-Persian transition and is adorned with beautiful chajjas, facades, chhatris and panels. Zanana Rauza or women’s tomb lies between the white mausoleum and Jamat Khana and once belonged to the family of Salim Chishti. However the tomb of Salim Chishti the center of attraction has its own deserving place with a heavenly appearance.
Being rested on a meter high platform, a flight of steps lead to the entrance porch. This is where the famous qawalli singers indulge into the Sufi music. The main tomb building is floored with marble and multicolored stones under a single semicircular dome. The marble lattice work on the jails, cover the tomb building from the sides. The northern screen is the location where people tie threads in view of fulfillment of their wishes. The threads have to be loosened once the wishes come true. The cenotaph is enclosed by ebony chhaparkhat and inlaid with mother of pearls. The entrance is carved with peacock tail pattern (Guajarati) depicting Akbar’s interest in various religions. The various Quranic and other traditional inscriptions etched on the wall add to the enigma of the place.
Thus on spiritual, architectural, archaeological and mystical grounds this ancient and reverend destination has achieved a pinnacle.

CHAMBA: IN BHAGIRATHI’S EMBRACE

Uttarakhand, 27th state of India is a land of hills. About 93% of it is mountainous thus creating numerous hill stations. Some being quite famous like mussorie, Dhanolti, kausani and some relatively untouched like chamb, gwaldam, Mukteshwar, ukhimath, etc. This makes Uttarakhand a tourist’s paradise complete with hills, valleys, mountainous and rivers everywhere.
Numerous villages and smaller towns have emerged all over the state especially around the valleys created by major rivers (sufficing the water needs for agricultural and settlement). Bhagirathi river is one such important river which after descending from Gangotri glacier feeds the major towns of uttarakashi, tehri etc finally to become the Ganges from Deoprayag.
Chamba, an untouched, unexplored and serene hamlet is one such place to develop in Bhagirathi valley. Perched at an average altitude of 1680 m, Chamba lies in the tehri district of Garhwal region of Uttarakhand 60 km from the famous hill station mussorie. Geographically it is enclosed between two principal spur ranges of the great Himalaya, the Dhauladhar and Pangi-pir Panjal. It was initially under Gorkha kingdom and later ruled by the great Garhwal kings. The lack of western touch is an evidence that this area was virtually uninfluenced by the British rule.
Chamba, the Florence of Himalaya, as it is often called is an emerging tourist spot especially after the controversial submergence of old tehri town by the koteshwar hydroelectric power plant. It is also the transition point to access the two dhams Yamnotri and Gangotri. The snow capped peaks of Thalay sagar, Jonli, Gangotri, Langtang range together with the awe inspiring views of the verdant gorges and enchanting valleys all around river Bhagirathi, undoubtedly shows you the power of nature’s creation.
Chamba is mainly an agricultural town and is the source of vegetables to the majority of Garhwal region. The terrace plantations as anywhere in the hills not only caters to the food needs but also adds to the inherent beauty of the place. The town basically comprises of a main road (like the mall road at any hill station) lined by small shops selling a assortment of things from mobile recharges to clothes. The road ends at what is known as Gabbar singh Chowk, the provisional taxi stand. One can get shared jeeps to mussorie via Kadhukhal. (2 hrs drive). Further ahead one reaches the main bus stand from where one can access Rishikesh (60km), Haridwar (80km) through buses run by the GMOU, government undertaking. Shared jeeps also move to New Tehri 11 km uphill
The houses are built in tiers after the first level of shops. Each house is connected by a tortuous network of road making the town even more compact. These houses are basically all single storied with wide balconies and veranda offering excellent views. The GMVN tourist rest house is located at the highest point of the town and one has to walk a good 2 km uphill to reach there. A shortcut exists from the main road just before the union bank office. It’s the best option to stay in chamba and gives a good vantage point to view the mighty Himalayan peaks, especially at sunrise. The TRH has 4 executive rooms fully furnished with fireplace, cozy beds and table. They have all the essential facilities like hot water, mirror and even dinning room. The local chef Mukesh can arrange for some hot food if intimated early.
Currently being relatively a less tourist inclined place , chamba has minimum options for lavishness and entertainment. One can take an evening stroll in the market, watch the sunset over the valley and enjoy a bonfire dinner. The stay at chamba gives you an opportunity to relax peacefully and enjoy the environment at leisure.
Morning gives better options. If one is enthusiastic enough and can get up early morning. They may be lucky to watch the first sun rays striking the Himalayan peaks which slowly come into visibility. Numerous peaks named and unnamed can be seen especially at this time without any cloud cover. After a good breakfast one can move to new Their 11 kms uphill on the other side of the valley. In shared jeeps it takes about 30 minutes to reach. It overlooks the tehri lake and remains of the old tehri town. The distant Himalayan peaks seem to come closer and the views become even more glorious. Especially from the bus stand of Tehri near the (GMVN TRH) one can get grand views of Thalay sagra standing right in front. New tehri houses one of the asaram bapu ashram and also a gurudwara. Driving further northwards from the bus stand leads you to the dam. Narrow roads encircle the massive broject built over the confluence of Bhagirathi and Dhauliganga rivers for power generation. This now puts one in dilemma about the power of nature’s vs man made creation. New tehri being a larger town has more options for eating and entertainment. One can relish anything from traditional Garhwali cuisine to Chinese cusines.
After a sumptuous meal, a trip towards Dhanolti (31 kms) is a must. En route a stop at Kadhukhal (24km), the seat of Surkanda devi, gives a spiritual element to your trip. Surkanda devi, one of the Shaktipeeth is a very reverend pilgrimage center for the locals. Dedicated to sati, the wife of lord shiva, the temple is perched at an altitude of 2750 m offering splendid views of chamba, Dhanolti and even mussorie. It is a 3 km trek from Kadhukhal village and one can take as offerings some garlands and sweets available at the base.
A sip of hot tea after the descent refreshes you and encourages to move further to Dhanolti. At a height of 2250 m, Dhanolti is a sylvan destination better equipped with restaurants and bars. The alu-pyaz parathans at zayka hotel is a must try and gives you the neccesary strength to move further. Nestled in the midst of oaks and pines it occasionally gives the views of the Himalayas and the valleys below. One can walk on the road and proves a refreshing experience and the mist blanket which comes every now and then gives you the feeling of dawn even at noon. From Dhanolti one can further go to mussorie (30 km) for staying or come back to chamba.
“Thus chamba still being a virgin land, offers you privacy with serenity and a feeling of remoteness, the very pre-requisite for a getaway”