A paradise lost: Sultanpur Bird sanctuary

The engines roared to life; the blasting sound filled the air when 22 bikers filled NH-8 on their beasts (as they name it). The vibration from the engines impersonated an earthquake for the insects and reptiles thriving on the roadside. The whole approach looked like a pride of lions marching zeroing their prey. The beasts none other than Royal Enfield of all makes and builds set of for a day trip to Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary.
Scheduled as a general body meeting for team456, the biking group in Delhi included many new comers like me with the veterans and co founders of the team Vinod, Ajith, Tushar etc. After assembling at two different point’s en-route (Pragati Maidan and Gurgaon) we started riding towards Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 45 km from Delhi on NH-15 A (Gurgaon-Farukhnagar Road). With small glitches like losing ways. Punctured tires we carried forward as one pride.
Headlights switched on even in broad daylight; a sign to indicate we all belong to same pack. Guys and gals joined in from all fields and interests but still with one common passion, Biking. Fueled by passion, motivated by the engine sounds we entered the cramped roads of Gurgaon city, where one faces everything from inanimate to animate (dogs to humans) and has to steer clear from all such small/large obstacles.
The city roads with minimal turns, yet maximum traffic soon gave away to the beautiful countryside where we could actually locate clear horizons. Yellow fields of mustard accompanied us throughout route. Although the road was just slightly better than a dirt bike track, the ride was worthwhile.
Within no time we were at the parking of the sanctuary. A complete row of the lot was devoted to our beasts. Exchanging quick chats, securing the helmets we proceeded to the ticket counter. The nominal fees of Rs. 5 for entry, 10 for parking and 25 for camera sounded great. A board on the entrance maps out the whole area and we guessed that the whole park was centered over the Lake which is the party place for the avifauna. Another Board enlists the number of these birds seen, which sounded quite promising. So all gears equipped we strolled forward inside the gate.
The landscape personified a dry habitat, classical autumn. The grass, leaves everything had turned golden. The sun was adding to the color. Dotted in between the tall grasses were small areas of shades and green grass. There we spotted the first wild life. Blue bull, nilgai were spotted. Led by the male there was herd with few spawns too. Grazing, relaxing and chilling could be the words to describe their daily chores. Few clicks we moved ahead when we came to the main attraction of the park. The Sultanpur Lake. This is where the concentration of fauna exists. We could spot a huge flock of Siberian cranes sitting on the center of the lake and occasionally making a flight over the lake in search of food. These birds were huge and beautiful sweeping above the lake resembling a MIG flowing swiftly in the sky. ON the other side we could spot a flock of ducks swimming inside the water but far away from us. We sat there for some time, assimilating the beauty of nature and getting it on the camera.
After sometime we started moving ahead. When we realized the whole park is mapped around the lake in a circular fashion. The sun was also getting strong but which embellished the whole scene. And suddenly someone pointed out that there was a snake. Being an avid her lover I immediately jumped. And at the first look itself I recognized the little one as being a common sand boa. Even though non-poisonous they bite very badly. So with utmost care I used a twig and lifted the chap to observe it closely. After handling it for some time I left it and it wriggled quickly into a nearby crevice. We were now munching chips and strolling ahead to the end of our trip.
In the whole trip, which was actually a general body meeting I met people belonging to different professions, and different fields. But one common passion, riding and travelling. This made the whole trip outstanding.

AN UNTRODEN WALK TOWARDS TRIDENT

“It was as if man was not a native of the earth at all but some clumsy intruder. Perhaps the reason we are drawn to mountains was precisely because they were not man’s place at all- Greg Child”
Trishul, the holy trident of lord Shiva, is a peak of the Garhwal Himalayas scaling to a height of 7120 m. Lying southwest to Nanda Devi (7817m) (the highest peak in India) and connected by a narrow crest, Trishul was one of the first Garhwal Himalayas to be climbed and most importantly world’s first ascent of a 7000m peak. Now it remains as the most frequently climbed 7000m peaks in India. Trishul overlooks various valleys, towns, rivers and glaciers consequently attaining a reverend position to the locals. One of these sylvan towns which has retained its primeval beauty and remains virtually unscathed by modern encroachments is Gwaldam.
Gwaldam perched at an altitude of 1960m lies at the border of Chamoli district of Garhwal and Bageshwar district of Kumaon. Thus it commands a magnificent view of both Garhwal Himalayas to the northern side and Kumaon valleys and villages to the south. It has been a popular destination amongst adventure seekers who have used it as base camps for Himalayan explorations
Gwaldam is easiest accessible from Almora-Bageshwar route moving west towards Karnaprayag. It lies40 kms north to Kausani via Baijnath (Famous for its ancient temples). The other option is entering through Garhwal via Rishikesh-Deoprayag-Srinagar-Rudraprayag-Karnaprayag-Tharali and Gwaldam. This route although longer (average speed 20 km/hr) runs along various sources of river Ganges like Bhagirathi, Nandakini and Pindar. The route from Karnaprayag to Gwaldam retraces the Pindar River flowing beneath in a deep gorge till Tharali which gives a serpentine appearance to the whole valley. The whole route passes through thick rainforests of Chamoli and thus it is advisable to drive in light.
After 8 hours of a tortuous road trip from Srinagar, when I finally reached Gwaldam at 5 pm it took me some time to settle down off the inertia. Gwaldam marks with a Bodh Math, Baghtoli village on the northern side and SSB academy campus on southern side. (Irony, with peace at north and war at north) The occasional sounds of firing and cadets moving on the road gave me a cantonment feel which during the colonial era would have been a summer retreat. A small artificial pond can also be noticed on the northern side probably being used as a fish breeding area during the British raj. Luckily for me the GMVN tourist rest house was in the beginning of the town with only few steps to ascend. The rooms were decent with all the basic amenities and good views. They also arrange for food if ordered early. With only 3 options of accomodation in Gwaldam the TRH has enjoyed its monopoly. After dumping my stuff in the room and a small informative chat with the hotel manager I ventured out to explore the virgin land. As it was still early September, Monsoon clouds shrouded the peaks in distance. But keeping a belief in the Mountain karma Theory (In a mountain trip, one should not keep a mountain load of expectations, rather just perform the karma of reaching the right spot and satisfy yourself with whatever visual treats the mountain god has to offer) I trudged forward on a small ridge.
After walking for some distance the Himalayan flora of pine, oaks etc started overpowering the human habitations and all I could see was trees.
That is when Nature struck me with an unparalleled view of the last rays of sun glistening behind the Chamoli hills giving it crowning glory. The sky changed hues from golden to scarlet red and finally to achromatic black studded with stars. It left me wanting for more. After a late dinner and a chat with Mr. Saha the caretaker of the resort I started chalking out the plans for next morning. According to him one can go to villages Mundoli (25kms) and continue to the mysterious Roopkund Lake trek, famous for its human skeletons. But transport facilities being at a standstill due to elections it was difficult to commute. Badahangarhi, a temple shrine located around 6 kms was another good option and I decided to give it a shot. In seasons, the TRH has also 10 day adventure camps undertaken by the government. It comprises of mountaineering skills together with knowledge about ecology of the Himalayan belt.
Hoping for a bright sunny day next morning I got up prior to sunrise. A cold breeze was trying to deter me from going out. But with adequate cover and extra adequate perseverance I went out. And voila! I could see the huge Trishul massif floating partly about the clouds shining like a beacon. I started walking briskly to locate a vantage point for an unobscured view and finally found a hillock. Slowly the other peaks were out of their night robes welcoming the new sun. From west to east one can locate, Nanda Ghunti (6309m), Trishul (7120m), Mrigthuni (6855m) and Maikatoli (6803 m). The recent snowfall had given them a unique look of white streaks running in the midst of blue surface (Hue due to the clouds). The higher peaks were totally snow covered and all of it looked right from a picture postcard.
But my happiness was short-lived and the clouds rising from the valleys below started covering the peaks again. With ample time in my hand, I had a leisure breakfast of egg omelet with local bread and tea, cooked in a traditional way using firewood. This is the best time to chat with the locals as they also prefer to spend the lovely mornings at leisure. Thoroughly refreshed I started moving towards Badahangarhi Temple. Badahangarhi (52 hills) at 2260 m is a temple shrine dedicate to goddess Kali built by the kings of past era. (Evident by the fort remains) It is a 2 km trek from Benatoli which is a 3km drive from Gwaldam towards Tharali. It offers splendid panoramic views of greater Himalayas and katyuri valleys of Kumaon. However as like any other high altitude areas it was under total cloud cover. From Benatoli one can also go to Agyari Mahadev (ancient Shiva shrine) 4 kms trek from Benatoli. Gwaldam nag temple dedicated to serpent gods another 2 hour trail from Benatoli.
Thus gwaldam is a complete package of luxury, spirituality, adventure and especially serene beauty of the Himalayan foothills.

AMBOLI: OFFTRACK

The golden spun hair-Rapunzel in Sindhdurg

Mythological the abode of Lord Parshuram and historically the stronghold of Shivaji Maharaja’s reign, Sindhdurg district in Maharashtra boast of 720 kms of uninterrupted coastlines, fringed with magnificent fortifications, bastions and the true core of forests of Western Ghats. Perched atop 690 m on the western Sahyadri in this district lies a sylvan hill station, amboli. It is one of the last hill stations on the western Sahyadri before giving way to the goan plains.

Amboli is a less accessed hill stations contemporary to others like matheran, mahabaleshwar etc. As the Ghat Road from the coastal town of Vengurla to Belgaum opened up, Amboli bloomed as a holiday retreat under the patronage of Colonel Westrop the British political agent. This tranquil mountaintop offers some of the best views of the Konkan coast and a magnificent panorama of the sweeping valley on the other three sides. Amboli showcases a unique blend of propinquity to major hubs at the same time with a feeling of remoteness from their industrial clutter thus making it an ideal getaway for those unwilling to explore too much out of their shell.

Amboli is an idyllic place to relax, unwind and leave back your fuel driven vehicles. Days to be spent meandering through Amboli's scenic hillscapes and misty forests wandering up virgin paths free of signposts, dividers and traffic lights. Nights under the star studded black sky full of silence. The mystic silence only gets interrupted by the chirping birds, rustling leaves and gushing waterfalls. Amboli is 8-10 shops long, evenly distributed on either side of the state highway 121, 3 large hotels, a number of lodges (basic) and a MTDC hotel outside the village limits. A 70-year-old Datta Mandir and a Hanuman shrine mark the beginning of the hamlet, opposite which is a Rammandir and a police station. A church and the ST stand mark the end of the village.

Two days and one can literally eat amboli out but still yearn for more. Driving on the carved ghat roads one can witness various waterfalls small-big named-unnamed of which some even have been linked to fairy tales. Hirayankeshi-Rapunzel, (getting its name from the golden glint forming over the falling stream) is 3 kms from amboli bus stand towards Belgaum. Another waterfall worth visiting is Nangartas waterfall around 10 km in opposite direction to Hirayankeshi. These waterfalls are considered to be sacred for the locales evident by the multitude of idols fringing the rivulet. The stagnant water also makes it an ideal location for paddy cultivation, thus making the river both purposeful and spiritual. With a good vantage point made across the valley one can get deafeningly close to Nangartas. Hirayankeshi is also a good spot for people indulging in angling. The nenewadi cave next to the shrine is a seat of adventure. Approximately 300 mts deep it has many mysteries associated with it. Discovered only in 1981 this cave has numerous flora and fauna unknown and some even dangerous to humans. It is said that there are seven ponds inside and mysterious source of sun light on the last pond. Some even believe that it houses many treasures belonging to the ancient age.

As with any other hill stations amboli offers two viewpoints for the tourist’s eye to wander off. With roads strewn through forests, with varying degrees of incline one reaches a solitary marking of shirgaonkar point 2km west from the police station. The panorama of the valleys and gorges below with a distant shimmer of water makes it a perfect picture post card. The road to mahadevgad point 3 km east is a blend of well laid human roads and equally well unlaid natural roads. However as the name suggests this point is free of any fortifications (Gad) except for some boulders lining the remnants of a bastion long existing in the past. The present evidence of human touché is the typical couple names etched on rocks proclaiming their love and litter around the benches and fences. Ambling your way back trudge further to view the sun setting down in the valleys from the sunset point 2 km north west.

Lying in your hotel room with the nature’s essence around, one can only relish the true flavors of creation of the supreme. The mist shrouds the roads and houses as the dusk drops down on amboli. Taking a torch and ambling through the road one can find small hotels serving everything from coffee, maggi, omelets and fish platter. A fish thali costing around 60 rs is the best for a hungry soul. Garnished with the local fish fries, Sol Kadi (A coconut milk preparation with kokum, serving as a strong appetizer) rice and a simple fish curry one can savor the Malvani cuisine. After a sumptuous meal one can only desire and dream of a good night sleep waiting for what nature has in its store for the next day.

With lots of options and ample time one can visit the bauxite mines and manohar-mansantoshgad forts. The forts now in total ruins even under the archeological survey of India are worth the excursion. Though not much of the fort is existent today it can still evoke nostalgia of the past days. The ever expansive Arabian Sea can be seen over from the edges giving a sense of eternity. The bauxite mines 10 kms away has its own aesthetic beauty. Still being mined it is one of the sources of bauxite in India. The botanical gardens are also a free to roam place with a variety of flora around. If one is lucky enough one can see the unusual flowering of KARVI, a flower said to be blooming every 8 years post monsoon. All in all amboli bags its well deserved place on a tourist’s list especially those who are well saturated of mall roads, ropeways, trinket vendors and cheap shops trying to sell their items in the disguise of souvenirs.

NAVIGATOR

Getting there.: Thanks to a well connected transport system Amboli can be accessed by air, road as well as rail. The nearest airports are Belgaum 60 km and Dabolim, Goa 120 km. The best way to reach Amboli is by Kokan railways a man made marvel cut through the Western Ghats. Nearest railhead is Sawantwadi Road around 30 km from Amboli. One can also access via Belgaum station (60 km) or Kolhapur (110 km). By road it takes longer to traverse the ghat section. Well tarred roads extend up to Mumbai (545 km, via chiplun-ratnagiri), Pune (360 km, via satara-kolhapur) and goa (64 km via sawantwadi) in each direction. Regular buses and private taxis and auto rickshaws stroll to and fro sawantwadi and amboli.

Shop and eat: Amboli is famous for its sawantwadi wooden dolls and one can take an assortment of the same to decorate their living space. Malvani cuisine is a must have. Even mutton and chicken prepared in their own style leaves behind your typical Punjabi and Afghani tastes. Fish preparations are the specialty and fish ranges from Pompfret, bangda, surmai and many other of creek origins. Sol Kadi an appetizer is the surely to be had.

Where to stay: Hotel green valley resort, Whistling woods, Hotel JRD international and MTDC resort are the high end hotels and resorts providing all basic and luxurious facilities. The other basic lodges are numerous and lined along the state highway. Some of the them are Hotel sailee, Hotel vrindavan etc.

When to be in amboli: Unlike other hill stations amboli should be visited in winter post monsoons. This is the peak time for the full volume of waterfalls and also pleasant sea breeze with outstanding uninterrupted views.