India is a land of villages. However with the cities flourishing at an exponential rate, the number of villages is on a decline. Remaining villages bathed in industrial revolution, nowadays have all facilities. In this era Saharia Organic resort is an ideal place to witness traditional village life. With inspirational steps in organic farming, rain water harvesting and waste management, Saharia organic resort avails the benefits of ante-global warming strategies.
Sprawling in 18 hectares of cultivated land, saharia organic resort is the conception of Mr. Vinod Saharia (also the owner of tea plantations in Assam). Transforming an arid vast desert into a cultivable land would have been a difficult task, however the outcome is beautiful. More than 10000 species of trees and plants predominated by Amla (Emblica offinalis) thrive in this oasis. In the midst of this sylvan environment lies nestled classically built huts as tourist’s retreat. Initially started as a site for organic farming activities it now encourages people to stay and enjoy the luxuries available in this village setting.
Two mud huts (facing the farms) with thatch roof, attached bathroom (roofless) and plentiful of fresh air welcomes everyone into the village environ. For those who want to stay connected 4 single rooms attached to each other can be taken. All these are powered with solar electricity. The designer keeping in mind with the motto of the resort has built the huts in a very traditional way. Half baked bricks form the skeleton and river silt form the mortar for the walls. This makes the hut a perfect thermal insulator (with warmth inside during winters whereas cool in summers) Layers of silt mixed with cow dung acts as the floor adding up to the aesthetic appearance. The bathroom (roofless) is one of its kinds. Taking bath under an open sky yet in complete privacy usually becomes the cherished moment.
The kitchen, well equipped with conventional firewood Chula adds to the aroma. Share your recipes and learn few native dishes by indulging yourself in cooking with the villagers. Moreover self catering facility in the tiny dining room gives opportunity to interact with the others in the resort. The vegetables used are obtained from the farm having both satiety and qualitative values and thus making this place a self sustained habitat.
One can get into the organically maintained swimming pool and enjoy the afternoon in leisure. An evening stroll in the farm with the ever helpful staff is filled with sights and sounds. With abundance of trees and plants this farm becomes a paradise for birds and birdwatchers alike. Species range from native and migrant as well, including common sparrows, parakeets, robins etc. Exploring around one can get familiar with the principles of vermi compost, liquid manure, natural pesticides and other aspects of organic farming. If enthusiastic and dedicated enough, one can become a WWOOF (Willing worker on organic farming) and help the workers in various chores. One can also enjoy a camel cart ride that can be arranged by telling the very enterprising Mr Lal Singh, the caretaker. Late Evenings are meant to be spent in leisure, relaxing under the setting sun around a bonfire with your near and dear ones.
Overall, Saharia Organic resort transports you to be closer to nature and rich village cultures, the very essence of our beautiful nation.
Navigator
The price factor: As an introductory price, the huts and rooms both are priced at 800 Rs for a day. The meal includes unlimited buffet for Rs 175 per head. No need to tip the workers as 200 Rs is charged for the welfare of the farm workers.
Contact for booking. The caretaker Lal Singh resides in the farm itself and can be contacted on +91-94350-31097 and +91-99830-9226. Reservations at info@sahariaorganicresort.com; official website: www.sahariaorganicresort.com.
Getting there: It is around 300 km from delhi and 22.5 km from jaipur. The easiest way is to reach Chandwaji on NH8 and then turn towards Chomu. From Chomu take the state highway towards jaipur. Around 15 km from chomu there is a JCPL factory. Take the road, surya vatika road exactly in front of the factory gate.
Monday, December 15, 2008
A knot of faith
Navigator
Getting there: Fatehpur sikhri lies 45 kms from Agra which the major railhead as well as Kheria airport connected to Delhi. Private jeeps, taxis take 1 hour to reach Fatehpur sikhri from agra. Public buses running from idgah bus stand agra have regular shuttle service to Fatehpur sikhri starting from morning to late afternoon.
Where to stay: Fatehpur sikhri is a small village encircling the fort remains. Due to this there is lack of any basic accomodation. The best option is to reach Fatehpur sikhri in the morning from Agra and then leave for Agra to stay. Alternatively one can also go to Bharatpur bird sanctuary, also known as Kaladeo National park for a forest rest house.
Places around:
1. Agra 45 km is land of Taj mahal, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. In Agra one can also visit agra fort, which was the red fort during akbar’s reign. One can also shop for marble souvenirs or visit Sikandra the place where Akbar finally rested.
2. Bharatpur bird sanctuary 30 km under the Kaladeo National park is the house for many migratory as well as residential birds of India and usually can be included in your Itenery to Fatehpur Sikhri.
Jami Masjid
Leaving behind his royal comforts Akbar marched miles with his queens and men, to the abode of Sufi Saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, A small desert cavern on the ridge in the Sikhri village 26 miles from Agra the then functioning mogul capital. The only wish Akbar the great had was to have an heir to his kingdom. This was fulfilled as of Salim (aka Jahangir) by the blessings of Salim Chishti, the descendant of Moinuddin Chishti. Deeply gratified, Akbar decided to build a city with a mosque, palaces, baths, gardens etc. But Salim Chishti passed away in 1571. So Akbar built a tomb initially with Redstone and later in marble in the center of the mosque.
Sheikh Salim Chishti Ki mazar as it is commonly known now is a reverend place for all religions alike. People with variety of wishes, some for health, wealth, heir, etc come to the mazar for blessing as Akbar came years back. Only difference is that Akbar walked all the way and now people drive till Fatehpur sikhri, hire a guide and enter the mazar and provide hundreds of people of the village a way of living. A beautifully constructed marble mausoleum facing south towards Buland darwaza, Jamat Khana, Badshahi darwaza, Zanana Rauza and ablution tank together with the pillars facades and domes comprise of what is called as Jami Masjid (Friday mosque).
Buland darwaza to the south is the one of the largest gates in Asia, and serves as the main entrance to the mosque. Built on the highest point of the ridge it is a perfect Islamic creation with octagonal arranged triple storied gate bordered by decorative panels and inscriptions. Badshahi Darwaza or the royal entrance was reserved for the royal folks during prayers. It faces east towards Agra and is less glamorous than Buland darwaza. Jamat Khana is the assembly hall and now houses a group of 24 graves of various Sufi saints. The mosque itself explicitly describes to be an Islamic-Persian transition and is adorned with beautiful chajjas, facades, chhatris and panels. Zanana Rauza or women’s tomb lies between the white mausoleum and Jamat Khana and once belonged to the family of Salim Chishti. However the tomb of Salim Chishti the center of attraction has its own deserving place with a heavenly appearance.
Being rested on a meter high platform, a flight of steps lead to the entrance porch. This is where the famous qawalli singers indulge into the Sufi music. The main tomb building is floored with marble and multicolored stones under a single semicircular dome. The marble lattice work on the jails, cover the tomb building from the sides. The northern screen is the location where people tie threads in view of fulfillment of their wishes. The threads have to be loosened once the wishes come true. The cenotaph is enclosed by ebony chhaparkhat and inlaid with mother of pearls. The entrance is carved with peacock tail pattern (Guajarati) depicting Akbar’s interest in various religions. The various Quranic and other traditional inscriptions etched on the wall add to the enigma of the place.
Thus on spiritual, architectural, archaeological and mystical grounds this ancient and reverend destination has achieved a pinnacle.
Getting there: Fatehpur sikhri lies 45 kms from Agra which the major railhead as well as Kheria airport connected to Delhi. Private jeeps, taxis take 1 hour to reach Fatehpur sikhri from agra. Public buses running from idgah bus stand agra have regular shuttle service to Fatehpur sikhri starting from morning to late afternoon.
Where to stay: Fatehpur sikhri is a small village encircling the fort remains. Due to this there is lack of any basic accomodation. The best option is to reach Fatehpur sikhri in the morning from Agra and then leave for Agra to stay. Alternatively one can also go to Bharatpur bird sanctuary, also known as Kaladeo National park for a forest rest house.
Places around:
1. Agra 45 km is land of Taj mahal, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. In Agra one can also visit agra fort, which was the red fort during akbar’s reign. One can also shop for marble souvenirs or visit Sikandra the place where Akbar finally rested.
2. Bharatpur bird sanctuary 30 km under the Kaladeo National park is the house for many migratory as well as residential birds of India and usually can be included in your Itenery to Fatehpur Sikhri.
Jami Masjid
Leaving behind his royal comforts Akbar marched miles with his queens and men, to the abode of Sufi Saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, A small desert cavern on the ridge in the Sikhri village 26 miles from Agra the then functioning mogul capital. The only wish Akbar the great had was to have an heir to his kingdom. This was fulfilled as of Salim (aka Jahangir) by the blessings of Salim Chishti, the descendant of Moinuddin Chishti. Deeply gratified, Akbar decided to build a city with a mosque, palaces, baths, gardens etc. But Salim Chishti passed away in 1571. So Akbar built a tomb initially with Redstone and later in marble in the center of the mosque.
Sheikh Salim Chishti Ki mazar as it is commonly known now is a reverend place for all religions alike. People with variety of wishes, some for health, wealth, heir, etc come to the mazar for blessing as Akbar came years back. Only difference is that Akbar walked all the way and now people drive till Fatehpur sikhri, hire a guide and enter the mazar and provide hundreds of people of the village a way of living. A beautifully constructed marble mausoleum facing south towards Buland darwaza, Jamat Khana, Badshahi darwaza, Zanana Rauza and ablution tank together with the pillars facades and domes comprise of what is called as Jami Masjid (Friday mosque).
Buland darwaza to the south is the one of the largest gates in Asia, and serves as the main entrance to the mosque. Built on the highest point of the ridge it is a perfect Islamic creation with octagonal arranged triple storied gate bordered by decorative panels and inscriptions. Badshahi Darwaza or the royal entrance was reserved for the royal folks during prayers. It faces east towards Agra and is less glamorous than Buland darwaza. Jamat Khana is the assembly hall and now houses a group of 24 graves of various Sufi saints. The mosque itself explicitly describes to be an Islamic-Persian transition and is adorned with beautiful chajjas, facades, chhatris and panels. Zanana Rauza or women’s tomb lies between the white mausoleum and Jamat Khana and once belonged to the family of Salim Chishti. However the tomb of Salim Chishti the center of attraction has its own deserving place with a heavenly appearance.
Being rested on a meter high platform, a flight of steps lead to the entrance porch. This is where the famous qawalli singers indulge into the Sufi music. The main tomb building is floored with marble and multicolored stones under a single semicircular dome. The marble lattice work on the jails, cover the tomb building from the sides. The northern screen is the location where people tie threads in view of fulfillment of their wishes. The threads have to be loosened once the wishes come true. The cenotaph is enclosed by ebony chhaparkhat and inlaid with mother of pearls. The entrance is carved with peacock tail pattern (Guajarati) depicting Akbar’s interest in various religions. The various Quranic and other traditional inscriptions etched on the wall add to the enigma of the place.
Thus on spiritual, architectural, archaeological and mystical grounds this ancient and reverend destination has achieved a pinnacle.
CHAMBA: IN BHAGIRATHI’S EMBRACE
Uttarakhand, 27th state of India is a land of hills. About 93% of it is mountainous thus creating numerous hill stations. Some being quite famous like mussorie, Dhanolti, kausani and some relatively untouched like chamb, gwaldam, Mukteshwar, ukhimath, etc. This makes Uttarakhand a tourist’s paradise complete with hills, valleys, mountainous and rivers everywhere.
Numerous villages and smaller towns have emerged all over the state especially around the valleys created by major rivers (sufficing the water needs for agricultural and settlement). Bhagirathi river is one such important river which after descending from Gangotri glacier feeds the major towns of uttarakashi, tehri etc finally to become the Ganges from Deoprayag.
Chamba, an untouched, unexplored and serene hamlet is one such place to develop in Bhagirathi valley. Perched at an average altitude of 1680 m, Chamba lies in the tehri district of Garhwal region of Uttarakhand 60 km from the famous hill station mussorie. Geographically it is enclosed between two principal spur ranges of the great Himalaya, the Dhauladhar and Pangi-pir Panjal. It was initially under Gorkha kingdom and later ruled by the great Garhwal kings. The lack of western touch is an evidence that this area was virtually uninfluenced by the British rule.
Chamba, the Florence of Himalaya, as it is often called is an emerging tourist spot especially after the controversial submergence of old tehri town by the koteshwar hydroelectric power plant. It is also the transition point to access the two dhams Yamnotri and Gangotri. The snow capped peaks of Thalay sagar, Jonli, Gangotri, Langtang range together with the awe inspiring views of the verdant gorges and enchanting valleys all around river Bhagirathi, undoubtedly shows you the power of nature’s creation.
Chamba is mainly an agricultural town and is the source of vegetables to the majority of Garhwal region. The terrace plantations as anywhere in the hills not only caters to the food needs but also adds to the inherent beauty of the place. The town basically comprises of a main road (like the mall road at any hill station) lined by small shops selling a assortment of things from mobile recharges to clothes. The road ends at what is known as Gabbar singh Chowk, the provisional taxi stand. One can get shared jeeps to mussorie via Kadhukhal. (2 hrs drive). Further ahead one reaches the main bus stand from where one can access Rishikesh (60km), Haridwar (80km) through buses run by the GMOU, government undertaking. Shared jeeps also move to New Tehri 11 km uphill
The houses are built in tiers after the first level of shops. Each house is connected by a tortuous network of road making the town even more compact. These houses are basically all single storied with wide balconies and veranda offering excellent views. The GMVN tourist rest house is located at the highest point of the town and one has to walk a good 2 km uphill to reach there. A shortcut exists from the main road just before the union bank office. It’s the best option to stay in chamba and gives a good vantage point to view the mighty Himalayan peaks, especially at sunrise. The TRH has 4 executive rooms fully furnished with fireplace, cozy beds and table. They have all the essential facilities like hot water, mirror and even dinning room. The local chef Mukesh can arrange for some hot food if intimated early.
Currently being relatively a less tourist inclined place , chamba has minimum options for lavishness and entertainment. One can take an evening stroll in the market, watch the sunset over the valley and enjoy a bonfire dinner. The stay at chamba gives you an opportunity to relax peacefully and enjoy the environment at leisure.
Morning gives better options. If one is enthusiastic enough and can get up early morning. They may be lucky to watch the first sun rays striking the Himalayan peaks which slowly come into visibility. Numerous peaks named and unnamed can be seen especially at this time without any cloud cover. After a good breakfast one can move to new Their 11 kms uphill on the other side of the valley. In shared jeeps it takes about 30 minutes to reach. It overlooks the tehri lake and remains of the old tehri town. The distant Himalayan peaks seem to come closer and the views become even more glorious. Especially from the bus stand of Tehri near the (GMVN TRH) one can get grand views of Thalay sagra standing right in front. New tehri houses one of the asaram bapu ashram and also a gurudwara. Driving further northwards from the bus stand leads you to the dam. Narrow roads encircle the massive broject built over the confluence of Bhagirathi and Dhauliganga rivers for power generation. This now puts one in dilemma about the power of nature’s vs man made creation. New tehri being a larger town has more options for eating and entertainment. One can relish anything from traditional Garhwali cuisine to Chinese cusines.
After a sumptuous meal, a trip towards Dhanolti (31 kms) is a must. En route a stop at Kadhukhal (24km), the seat of Surkanda devi, gives a spiritual element to your trip. Surkanda devi, one of the Shaktipeeth is a very reverend pilgrimage center for the locals. Dedicated to sati, the wife of lord shiva, the temple is perched at an altitude of 2750 m offering splendid views of chamba, Dhanolti and even mussorie. It is a 3 km trek from Kadhukhal village and one can take as offerings some garlands and sweets available at the base.
A sip of hot tea after the descent refreshes you and encourages to move further to Dhanolti. At a height of 2250 m, Dhanolti is a sylvan destination better equipped with restaurants and bars. The alu-pyaz parathans at zayka hotel is a must try and gives you the neccesary strength to move further. Nestled in the midst of oaks and pines it occasionally gives the views of the Himalayas and the valleys below. One can walk on the road and proves a refreshing experience and the mist blanket which comes every now and then gives you the feeling of dawn even at noon. From Dhanolti one can further go to mussorie (30 km) for staying or come back to chamba.
“Thus chamba still being a virgin land, offers you privacy with serenity and a feeling of remoteness, the very pre-requisite for a getaway”
Numerous villages and smaller towns have emerged all over the state especially around the valleys created by major rivers (sufficing the water needs for agricultural and settlement). Bhagirathi river is one such important river which after descending from Gangotri glacier feeds the major towns of uttarakashi, tehri etc finally to become the Ganges from Deoprayag.
Chamba, an untouched, unexplored and serene hamlet is one such place to develop in Bhagirathi valley. Perched at an average altitude of 1680 m, Chamba lies in the tehri district of Garhwal region of Uttarakhand 60 km from the famous hill station mussorie. Geographically it is enclosed between two principal spur ranges of the great Himalaya, the Dhauladhar and Pangi-pir Panjal. It was initially under Gorkha kingdom and later ruled by the great Garhwal kings. The lack of western touch is an evidence that this area was virtually uninfluenced by the British rule.
Chamba, the Florence of Himalaya, as it is often called is an emerging tourist spot especially after the controversial submergence of old tehri town by the koteshwar hydroelectric power plant. It is also the transition point to access the two dhams Yamnotri and Gangotri. The snow capped peaks of Thalay sagar, Jonli, Gangotri, Langtang range together with the awe inspiring views of the verdant gorges and enchanting valleys all around river Bhagirathi, undoubtedly shows you the power of nature’s creation.
Chamba is mainly an agricultural town and is the source of vegetables to the majority of Garhwal region. The terrace plantations as anywhere in the hills not only caters to the food needs but also adds to the inherent beauty of the place. The town basically comprises of a main road (like the mall road at any hill station) lined by small shops selling a assortment of things from mobile recharges to clothes. The road ends at what is known as Gabbar singh Chowk, the provisional taxi stand. One can get shared jeeps to mussorie via Kadhukhal. (2 hrs drive). Further ahead one reaches the main bus stand from where one can access Rishikesh (60km), Haridwar (80km) through buses run by the GMOU, government undertaking. Shared jeeps also move to New Tehri 11 km uphill
The houses are built in tiers after the first level of shops. Each house is connected by a tortuous network of road making the town even more compact. These houses are basically all single storied with wide balconies and veranda offering excellent views. The GMVN tourist rest house is located at the highest point of the town and one has to walk a good 2 km uphill to reach there. A shortcut exists from the main road just before the union bank office. It’s the best option to stay in chamba and gives a good vantage point to view the mighty Himalayan peaks, especially at sunrise. The TRH has 4 executive rooms fully furnished with fireplace, cozy beds and table. They have all the essential facilities like hot water, mirror and even dinning room. The local chef Mukesh can arrange for some hot food if intimated early.
Currently being relatively a less tourist inclined place , chamba has minimum options for lavishness and entertainment. One can take an evening stroll in the market, watch the sunset over the valley and enjoy a bonfire dinner. The stay at chamba gives you an opportunity to relax peacefully and enjoy the environment at leisure.
Morning gives better options. If one is enthusiastic enough and can get up early morning. They may be lucky to watch the first sun rays striking the Himalayan peaks which slowly come into visibility. Numerous peaks named and unnamed can be seen especially at this time without any cloud cover. After a good breakfast one can move to new Their 11 kms uphill on the other side of the valley. In shared jeeps it takes about 30 minutes to reach. It overlooks the tehri lake and remains of the old tehri town. The distant Himalayan peaks seem to come closer and the views become even more glorious. Especially from the bus stand of Tehri near the (GMVN TRH) one can get grand views of Thalay sagra standing right in front. New tehri houses one of the asaram bapu ashram and also a gurudwara. Driving further northwards from the bus stand leads you to the dam. Narrow roads encircle the massive broject built over the confluence of Bhagirathi and Dhauliganga rivers for power generation. This now puts one in dilemma about the power of nature’s vs man made creation. New tehri being a larger town has more options for eating and entertainment. One can relish anything from traditional Garhwali cuisine to Chinese cusines.
After a sumptuous meal, a trip towards Dhanolti (31 kms) is a must. En route a stop at Kadhukhal (24km), the seat of Surkanda devi, gives a spiritual element to your trip. Surkanda devi, one of the Shaktipeeth is a very reverend pilgrimage center for the locals. Dedicated to sati, the wife of lord shiva, the temple is perched at an altitude of 2750 m offering splendid views of chamba, Dhanolti and even mussorie. It is a 3 km trek from Kadhukhal village and one can take as offerings some garlands and sweets available at the base.
A sip of hot tea after the descent refreshes you and encourages to move further to Dhanolti. At a height of 2250 m, Dhanolti is a sylvan destination better equipped with restaurants and bars. The alu-pyaz parathans at zayka hotel is a must try and gives you the neccesary strength to move further. Nestled in the midst of oaks and pines it occasionally gives the views of the Himalayas and the valleys below. One can walk on the road and proves a refreshing experience and the mist blanket which comes every now and then gives you the feeling of dawn even at noon. From Dhanolti one can further go to mussorie (30 km) for staying or come back to chamba.
“Thus chamba still being a virgin land, offers you privacy with serenity and a feeling of remoteness, the very pre-requisite for a getaway”
AN UNTRODEN WALK TOWARDS TRIDENT
“It was as if man was not a native of the earth at all but some clumsy intruder. Perhaps the reason we are drawn to mountains was precisely because they were not man’s place at all- Greg Child”
Trishul, the holy trident of lord Shiva, is a peak of the Garhwal Himalayas scaling to a height of 7120 m. Lying southwest to Nanda Devi (7817m) (the highest peak in India) and connected by a narrow crest, Trishul was one of the first Garhwal Himalayas to be climbed and most importantly world’s first ascent of a 7000m peak. Now it remains as the most frequently climbed 7000m peaks in India. Trishul overlooks various valleys, towns, rivers and glaciers consequently attaining a reverend position to the locals. One of these sylvan towns which has retained its primeval beauty and remains virtually unscathed by modern encroachments is Gwaldam.
Gwaldam perched at an altitude of 1960m lies at the border of Chamoli district of Garhwal and Bageshwar district of Kumaon. Thus it commands a magnificent view of both Garhwal Himalayas to the northern side and Kumaon valleys and villages to the south. It has been a popular destination amongst adventure seekers who have used it as base camps for Himalayan explorations
Gwaldam is easiest accessible from Almora-Bageshwar route moving west towards Karnaprayag. It lies40 kms north to Kausani via Baijnath (Famous for its ancient temples). The other option is entering through Garhwal via Rishikesh-Deoprayag-Srinagar-Rudraprayag-Karnaprayag-Tharali and Gwaldam. This route although longer (average speed 20 km/hr) runs along various sources of river Ganges like Bhagirathi, Nandakini and Pindar. The route from Karnaprayag to Gwaldam retraces the Pindar River flowing beneath in a deep gorge till Tharali which gives a serpentine appearance to the whole valley. The whole route passes through thick rainforests of Chamoli and thus it is advisable to drive in light.
After 8 hours of a tortuous road trip from Srinagar, when I finally reached Gwaldam at 5 pm it took me some time to settle down off the inertia. Gwaldam marks with a Bodh Math, Baghtoli village on the northern side and SSB academy campus on southern side. (Irony, with peace at north and war at north) The occasional sounds of firing and cadets moving on the road gave me a cantonment feel which during the colonial era would have been a summer retreat. A small artificial pond can also be noticed on the northern side probably being used as a fish breeding area during the British raj. Luckily for me the GMVN tourist rest house was in the beginning of the town with only few steps to ascend. The rooms were decent with all the basic amenities and good views. They also arrange for food if ordered early. With only 3 options of accomodation in Gwaldam the TRH has enjoyed its monopoly. After dumping my stuff in the room and a small informative chat with the hotel manager I ventured out to explore the virgin land. As it was still early September, Monsoon clouds shrouded the peaks in distance. But keeping a belief in the Mountain karma Theory (In a mountain trip, one should not keep a mountain load of expectations, rather just perform the karma of reaching the right spot and satisfy yourself with whatever visual treats the mountain god has to offer) I trudged forward on a small ridge.
After walking for some distance the Himalayan flora of pine, oaks etc started overpowering the human habitations and all I could see was trees.
That is when Nature struck me with an unparalleled view of the last rays of sun glistening behind the Chamoli hills giving it crowning glory. The sky changed hues from golden to scarlet red and finally to achromatic black studded with stars. It left me wanting for more. After a late dinner and a chat with Mr. Saha the caretaker of the resort I started chalking out the plans for next morning. According to him one can go to villages Mundoli (25kms) and continue to the mysterious Roopkund Lake trek, famous for its human skeletons. But transport facilities being at a standstill due to elections it was difficult to commute. Badahangarhi, a temple shrine located around 6 kms was another good option and I decided to give it a shot. In seasons, the TRH has also 10 day adventure camps undertaken by the government. It comprises of mountaineering skills together with knowledge about ecology of the Himalayan belt.
Hoping for a bright sunny day next morning I got up prior to sunrise. A cold breeze was trying to deter me from going out. But with adequate cover and extra adequate perseverance I went out. And voila! I could see the huge Trishul massif floating partly about the clouds shining like a beacon. I started walking briskly to locate a vantage point for an unobscured view and finally found a hillock. Slowly the other peaks were out of their night robes welcoming the new sun. From west to east one can locate, Nanda Ghunti (6309m), Trishul (7120m), Mrigthuni (6855m) and Maikatoli (6803 m). The recent snowfall had given them a unique look of white streaks running in the midst of blue surface (Hue due to the clouds). The higher peaks were totally snow covered and all of it looked right from a picture postcard.
But my happiness was short-lived and the clouds rising from the valleys below started covering the peaks again. With ample time in my hand, I had a leisure breakfast of egg omelet with local bread and tea, cooked in a traditional way using firewood. This is the best time to chat with the locals as they also prefer to spend the lovely mornings at leisure. Thoroughly refreshed I started moving towards Badahangarhi Temple. Badahangarhi (52 hills) at 2260 m is a temple shrine dedicate to goddess Kali built by the kings of past era. (Evident by the fort remains) It is a 2 km trek from Benatoli which is a 3km drive from Gwaldam towards Tharali. It offers splendid panoramic views of greater Himalayas and katyuri valleys of Kumaon. However as like any other high altitude areas it was under total cloud cover. From Benatoli one can also go to Agyari Mahadev (ancient Shiva shrine) 4 kms trek from Benatoli. Gwaldam nag temple dedicated to serpent gods another 2 hour trail from Benatoli.
Thus gwaldam is a complete package of luxury, spirituality, adventure and especially serene beauty of the Himalayan foothills.
Trishul, the holy trident of lord Shiva, is a peak of the Garhwal Himalayas scaling to a height of 7120 m. Lying southwest to Nanda Devi (7817m) (the highest peak in India) and connected by a narrow crest, Trishul was one of the first Garhwal Himalayas to be climbed and most importantly world’s first ascent of a 7000m peak. Now it remains as the most frequently climbed 7000m peaks in India. Trishul overlooks various valleys, towns, rivers and glaciers consequently attaining a reverend position to the locals. One of these sylvan towns which has retained its primeval beauty and remains virtually unscathed by modern encroachments is Gwaldam.
Gwaldam perched at an altitude of 1960m lies at the border of Chamoli district of Garhwal and Bageshwar district of Kumaon. Thus it commands a magnificent view of both Garhwal Himalayas to the northern side and Kumaon valleys and villages to the south. It has been a popular destination amongst adventure seekers who have used it as base camps for Himalayan explorations
Gwaldam is easiest accessible from Almora-Bageshwar route moving west towards Karnaprayag. It lies40 kms north to Kausani via Baijnath (Famous for its ancient temples). The other option is entering through Garhwal via Rishikesh-Deoprayag-Srinagar-Rudraprayag-Karnaprayag-Tharali and Gwaldam. This route although longer (average speed 20 km/hr) runs along various sources of river Ganges like Bhagirathi, Nandakini and Pindar. The route from Karnaprayag to Gwaldam retraces the Pindar River flowing beneath in a deep gorge till Tharali which gives a serpentine appearance to the whole valley. The whole route passes through thick rainforests of Chamoli and thus it is advisable to drive in light.
After 8 hours of a tortuous road trip from Srinagar, when I finally reached Gwaldam at 5 pm it took me some time to settle down off the inertia. Gwaldam marks with a Bodh Math, Baghtoli village on the northern side and SSB academy campus on southern side. (Irony, with peace at north and war at north) The occasional sounds of firing and cadets moving on the road gave me a cantonment feel which during the colonial era would have been a summer retreat. A small artificial pond can also be noticed on the northern side probably being used as a fish breeding area during the British raj. Luckily for me the GMVN tourist rest house was in the beginning of the town with only few steps to ascend. The rooms were decent with all the basic amenities and good views. They also arrange for food if ordered early. With only 3 options of accomodation in Gwaldam the TRH has enjoyed its monopoly. After dumping my stuff in the room and a small informative chat with the hotel manager I ventured out to explore the virgin land. As it was still early September, Monsoon clouds shrouded the peaks in distance. But keeping a belief in the Mountain karma Theory (In a mountain trip, one should not keep a mountain load of expectations, rather just perform the karma of reaching the right spot and satisfy yourself with whatever visual treats the mountain god has to offer) I trudged forward on a small ridge.
After walking for some distance the Himalayan flora of pine, oaks etc started overpowering the human habitations and all I could see was trees.
That is when Nature struck me with an unparalleled view of the last rays of sun glistening behind the Chamoli hills giving it crowning glory. The sky changed hues from golden to scarlet red and finally to achromatic black studded with stars. It left me wanting for more. After a late dinner and a chat with Mr. Saha the caretaker of the resort I started chalking out the plans for next morning. According to him one can go to villages Mundoli (25kms) and continue to the mysterious Roopkund Lake trek, famous for its human skeletons. But transport facilities being at a standstill due to elections it was difficult to commute. Badahangarhi, a temple shrine located around 6 kms was another good option and I decided to give it a shot. In seasons, the TRH has also 10 day adventure camps undertaken by the government. It comprises of mountaineering skills together with knowledge about ecology of the Himalayan belt.
Hoping for a bright sunny day next morning I got up prior to sunrise. A cold breeze was trying to deter me from going out. But with adequate cover and extra adequate perseverance I went out. And voila! I could see the huge Trishul massif floating partly about the clouds shining like a beacon. I started walking briskly to locate a vantage point for an unobscured view and finally found a hillock. Slowly the other peaks were out of their night robes welcoming the new sun. From west to east one can locate, Nanda Ghunti (6309m), Trishul (7120m), Mrigthuni (6855m) and Maikatoli (6803 m). The recent snowfall had given them a unique look of white streaks running in the midst of blue surface (Hue due to the clouds). The higher peaks were totally snow covered and all of it looked right from a picture postcard.
But my happiness was short-lived and the clouds rising from the valleys below started covering the peaks again. With ample time in my hand, I had a leisure breakfast of egg omelet with local bread and tea, cooked in a traditional way using firewood. This is the best time to chat with the locals as they also prefer to spend the lovely mornings at leisure. Thoroughly refreshed I started moving towards Badahangarhi Temple. Badahangarhi (52 hills) at 2260 m is a temple shrine dedicate to goddess Kali built by the kings of past era. (Evident by the fort remains) It is a 2 km trek from Benatoli which is a 3km drive from Gwaldam towards Tharali. It offers splendid panoramic views of greater Himalayas and katyuri valleys of Kumaon. However as like any other high altitude areas it was under total cloud cover. From Benatoli one can also go to Agyari Mahadev (ancient Shiva shrine) 4 kms trek from Benatoli. Gwaldam nag temple dedicated to serpent gods another 2 hour trail from Benatoli.
Thus gwaldam is a complete package of luxury, spirituality, adventure and especially serene beauty of the Himalayan foothills.
AMBOLI: OFFTRACK
The golden spun hair-Rapunzel in Sindhdurg
Mythological the abode of Lord Parshuram and historically the stronghold of Shivaji Maharaja’s reign, Sindhdurg district in Maharashtra boast of 720 kms of uninterrupted coastlines, fringed with magnificent fortifications, bastions and the true core of forests of Western Ghats. Perched atop 690 m on the western Sahyadri in this district lies a sylvan hill station, amboli. It is one of the last hill stations on the western Sahyadri before giving way to the goan plains.
Amboli is a less accessed hill stations contemporary to others like matheran, mahabaleshwar etc. As the Ghat Road from the coastal town of Vengurla to Belgaum opened up, Amboli bloomed as a holiday retreat under the patronage of Colonel Westrop the British political agent. This tranquil mountaintop offers some of the best views of the Konkan coast and a magnificent panorama of the sweeping valley on the other three sides. Amboli showcases a unique blend of propinquity to major hubs at the same time with a feeling of remoteness from their industrial clutter thus making it an ideal getaway for those unwilling to explore too much out of their shell.
Amboli is an idyllic place to relax, unwind and leave back your fuel driven vehicles. Days to be spent meandering through Amboli's scenic hillscapes and misty forests wandering up virgin paths free of signposts, dividers and traffic lights. Nights under the star studded black sky full of silence. The mystic silence only gets interrupted by the chirping birds, rustling leaves and gushing waterfalls. Amboli is 8-10 shops long, evenly distributed on either side of the state highway 121, 3 large hotels, a number of lodges (basic) and a MTDC hotel outside the village limits. A 70-year-old Datta Mandir and a Hanuman shrine mark the beginning of the hamlet, opposite which is a Rammandir and a police station. A church and the ST stand mark the end of the village.
Two days and one can literally eat amboli out but still yearn for more. Driving on the carved ghat roads one can witness various waterfalls small-big named-unnamed of which some even have been linked to fairy tales. Hirayankeshi-Rapunzel, (getting its name from the golden glint forming over the falling stream) is 3 kms from amboli bus stand towards Belgaum. Another waterfall worth visiting is Nangartas waterfall around 10 km in opposite direction to Hirayankeshi. These waterfalls are considered to be sacred for the locales evident by the multitude of idols fringing the rivulet. The stagnant water also makes it an ideal location for paddy cultivation, thus making the river both purposeful and spiritual. With a good vantage point made across the valley one can get deafeningly close to Nangartas. Hirayankeshi is also a good spot for people indulging in angling. The nenewadi cave next to the shrine is a seat of adventure. Approximately 300 mts deep it has many mysteries associated with it. Discovered only in 1981 this cave has numerous flora and fauna unknown and some even dangerous to humans. It is said that there are seven ponds inside and mysterious source of sun light on the last pond. Some even believe that it houses many treasures belonging to the ancient age.
As with any other hill stations amboli offers two viewpoints for the tourist’s eye to wander off. With roads strewn through forests, with varying degrees of incline one reaches a solitary marking of shirgaonkar point 2km west from the police station. The panorama of the valleys and gorges below with a distant shimmer of water makes it a perfect picture post card. The road to mahadevgad point 3 km east is a blend of well laid human roads and equally well unlaid natural roads. However as the name suggests this point is free of any fortifications (Gad) except for some boulders lining the remnants of a bastion long existing in the past. The present evidence of human touché is the typical couple names etched on rocks proclaiming their love and litter around the benches and fences. Ambling your way back trudge further to view the sun setting down in the valleys from the sunset point 2 km north west.
Lying in your hotel room with the nature’s essence around, one can only relish the true flavors of creation of the supreme. The mist shrouds the roads and houses as the dusk drops down on amboli. Taking a torch and ambling through the road one can find small hotels serving everything from coffee, maggi, omelets and fish platter. A fish thali costing around 60 rs is the best for a hungry soul. Garnished with the local fish fries, Sol Kadi (A coconut milk preparation with kokum, serving as a strong appetizer) rice and a simple fish curry one can savor the Malvani cuisine. After a sumptuous meal one can only desire and dream of a good night sleep waiting for what nature has in its store for the next day.
With lots of options and ample time one can visit the bauxite mines and manohar-mansantoshgad forts. The forts now in total ruins even under the archeological survey of India are worth the excursion. Though not much of the fort is existent today it can still evoke nostalgia of the past days. The ever expansive Arabian Sea can be seen over from the edges giving a sense of eternity. The bauxite mines 10 kms away has its own aesthetic beauty. Still being mined it is one of the sources of bauxite in India. The botanical gardens are also a free to roam place with a variety of flora around. If one is lucky enough one can see the unusual flowering of KARVI, a flower said to be blooming every 8 years post monsoon. All in all amboli bags its well deserved place on a tourist’s list especially those who are well saturated of mall roads, ropeways, trinket vendors and cheap shops trying to sell their items in the disguise of souvenirs.
NAVIGATOR
Getting there.: Thanks to a well connected transport system Amboli can be accessed by air, road as well as rail. The nearest airports are Belgaum 60 km and Dabolim, Goa 120 km. The best way to reach Amboli is by Kokan railways a man made marvel cut through the Western Ghats. Nearest railhead is Sawantwadi Road around 30 km from Amboli. One can also access via Belgaum station (60 km) or Kolhapur (110 km). By road it takes longer to traverse the ghat section. Well tarred roads extend up to Mumbai (545 km, via chiplun-ratnagiri), Pune (360 km, via satara-kolhapur) and goa (64 km via sawantwadi) in each direction. Regular buses and private taxis and auto rickshaws stroll to and fro sawantwadi and amboli.
Shop and eat: Amboli is famous for its sawantwadi wooden dolls and one can take an assortment of the same to decorate their living space. Malvani cuisine is a must have. Even mutton and chicken prepared in their own style leaves behind your typical Punjabi and Afghani tastes. Fish preparations are the specialty and fish ranges from Pompfret, bangda, surmai and many other of creek origins. Sol Kadi an appetizer is the surely to be had.
Where to stay: Hotel green valley resort, Whistling woods, Hotel JRD international and MTDC resort are the high end hotels and resorts providing all basic and luxurious facilities. The other basic lodges are numerous and lined along the state highway. Some of the them are Hotel sailee, Hotel vrindavan etc.
When to be in amboli: Unlike other hill stations amboli should be visited in winter post monsoons. This is the peak time for the full volume of waterfalls and also pleasant sea breeze with outstanding uninterrupted views.
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