Monday, December 15, 2008

A knot of faith

Navigator
Getting there: Fatehpur sikhri lies 45 kms from Agra which the major railhead as well as Kheria airport connected to Delhi. Private jeeps, taxis take 1 hour to reach Fatehpur sikhri from agra. Public buses running from idgah bus stand agra have regular shuttle service to Fatehpur sikhri starting from morning to late afternoon.
Where to stay: Fatehpur sikhri is a small village encircling the fort remains. Due to this there is lack of any basic accomodation. The best option is to reach Fatehpur sikhri in the morning from Agra and then leave for Agra to stay. Alternatively one can also go to Bharatpur bird sanctuary, also known as Kaladeo National park for a forest rest house.
Places around:
1. Agra 45 km is land of Taj mahal, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. In Agra one can also visit agra fort, which was the red fort during akbar’s reign. One can also shop for marble souvenirs or visit Sikandra the place where Akbar finally rested.
2. Bharatpur bird sanctuary 30 km under the Kaladeo National park is the house for many migratory as well as residential birds of India and usually can be included in your Itenery to Fatehpur Sikhri.
Jami Masjid
Leaving behind his royal comforts Akbar marched miles with his queens and men, to the abode of Sufi Saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, A small desert cavern on the ridge in the Sikhri village 26 miles from Agra the then functioning mogul capital. The only wish Akbar the great had was to have an heir to his kingdom. This was fulfilled as of Salim (aka Jahangir) by the blessings of Salim Chishti, the descendant of Moinuddin Chishti. Deeply gratified, Akbar decided to build a city with a mosque, palaces, baths, gardens etc. But Salim Chishti passed away in 1571. So Akbar built a tomb initially with Redstone and later in marble in the center of the mosque.
Sheikh Salim Chishti Ki mazar as it is commonly known now is a reverend place for all religions alike. People with variety of wishes, some for health, wealth, heir, etc come to the mazar for blessing as Akbar came years back. Only difference is that Akbar walked all the way and now people drive till Fatehpur sikhri, hire a guide and enter the mazar and provide hundreds of people of the village a way of living. A beautifully constructed marble mausoleum facing south towards Buland darwaza, Jamat Khana, Badshahi darwaza, Zanana Rauza and ablution tank together with the pillars facades and domes comprise of what is called as Jami Masjid (Friday mosque).
Buland darwaza to the south is the one of the largest gates in Asia, and serves as the main entrance to the mosque. Built on the highest point of the ridge it is a perfect Islamic creation with octagonal arranged triple storied gate bordered by decorative panels and inscriptions. Badshahi Darwaza or the royal entrance was reserved for the royal folks during prayers. It faces east towards Agra and is less glamorous than Buland darwaza. Jamat Khana is the assembly hall and now houses a group of 24 graves of various Sufi saints. The mosque itself explicitly describes to be an Islamic-Persian transition and is adorned with beautiful chajjas, facades, chhatris and panels. Zanana Rauza or women’s tomb lies between the white mausoleum and Jamat Khana and once belonged to the family of Salim Chishti. However the tomb of Salim Chishti the center of attraction has its own deserving place with a heavenly appearance.
Being rested on a meter high platform, a flight of steps lead to the entrance porch. This is where the famous qawalli singers indulge into the Sufi music. The main tomb building is floored with marble and multicolored stones under a single semicircular dome. The marble lattice work on the jails, cover the tomb building from the sides. The northern screen is the location where people tie threads in view of fulfillment of their wishes. The threads have to be loosened once the wishes come true. The cenotaph is enclosed by ebony chhaparkhat and inlaid with mother of pearls. The entrance is carved with peacock tail pattern (Guajarati) depicting Akbar’s interest in various religions. The various Quranic and other traditional inscriptions etched on the wall add to the enigma of the place.
Thus on spiritual, architectural, archaeological and mystical grounds this ancient and reverend destination has achieved a pinnacle.

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