AMBOLI: OFFTRACK

The golden spun hair-Rapunzel in Sindhdurg

Mythological the abode of Lord Parshuram and historically the stronghold of Shivaji Maharaja’s reign, Sindhdurg district in Maharashtra boast of 720 kms of uninterrupted coastlines, fringed with magnificent fortifications, bastions and the true core of forests of Western Ghats. Perched atop 690 m on the western Sahyadri in this district lies a sylvan hill station, amboli. It is one of the last hill stations on the western Sahyadri before giving way to the goan plains.

Amboli is a less accessed hill stations contemporary to others like matheran, mahabaleshwar etc. As the Ghat Road from the coastal town of Vengurla to Belgaum opened up, Amboli bloomed as a holiday retreat under the patronage of Colonel Westrop the British political agent. This tranquil mountaintop offers some of the best views of the Konkan coast and a magnificent panorama of the sweeping valley on the other three sides. Amboli showcases a unique blend of propinquity to major hubs at the same time with a feeling of remoteness from their industrial clutter thus making it an ideal getaway for those unwilling to explore too much out of their shell.

Amboli is an idyllic place to relax, unwind and leave back your fuel driven vehicles. Days to be spent meandering through Amboli's scenic hillscapes and misty forests wandering up virgin paths free of signposts, dividers and traffic lights. Nights under the star studded black sky full of silence. The mystic silence only gets interrupted by the chirping birds, rustling leaves and gushing waterfalls. Amboli is 8-10 shops long, evenly distributed on either side of the state highway 121, 3 large hotels, a number of lodges (basic) and a MTDC hotel outside the village limits. A 70-year-old Datta Mandir and a Hanuman shrine mark the beginning of the hamlet, opposite which is a Rammandir and a police station. A church and the ST stand mark the end of the village.

Two days and one can literally eat amboli out but still yearn for more. Driving on the carved ghat roads one can witness various waterfalls small-big named-unnamed of which some even have been linked to fairy tales. Hirayankeshi-Rapunzel, (getting its name from the golden glint forming over the falling stream) is 3 kms from amboli bus stand towards Belgaum. Another waterfall worth visiting is Nangartas waterfall around 10 km in opposite direction to Hirayankeshi. These waterfalls are considered to be sacred for the locales evident by the multitude of idols fringing the rivulet. The stagnant water also makes it an ideal location for paddy cultivation, thus making the river both purposeful and spiritual. With a good vantage point made across the valley one can get deafeningly close to Nangartas. Hirayankeshi is also a good spot for people indulging in angling. The nenewadi cave next to the shrine is a seat of adventure. Approximately 300 mts deep it has many mysteries associated with it. Discovered only in 1981 this cave has numerous flora and fauna unknown and some even dangerous to humans. It is said that there are seven ponds inside and mysterious source of sun light on the last pond. Some even believe that it houses many treasures belonging to the ancient age.

As with any other hill stations amboli offers two viewpoints for the tourist’s eye to wander off. With roads strewn through forests, with varying degrees of incline one reaches a solitary marking of shirgaonkar point 2km west from the police station. The panorama of the valleys and gorges below with a distant shimmer of water makes it a perfect picture post card. The road to mahadevgad point 3 km east is a blend of well laid human roads and equally well unlaid natural roads. However as the name suggests this point is free of any fortifications (Gad) except for some boulders lining the remnants of a bastion long existing in the past. The present evidence of human touché is the typical couple names etched on rocks proclaiming their love and litter around the benches and fences. Ambling your way back trudge further to view the sun setting down in the valleys from the sunset point 2 km north west.

Lying in your hotel room with the nature’s essence around, one can only relish the true flavors of creation of the supreme. The mist shrouds the roads and houses as the dusk drops down on amboli. Taking a torch and ambling through the road one can find small hotels serving everything from coffee, maggi, omelets and fish platter. A fish thali costing around 60 rs is the best for a hungry soul. Garnished with the local fish fries, Sol Kadi (A coconut milk preparation with kokum, serving as a strong appetizer) rice and a simple fish curry one can savor the Malvani cuisine. After a sumptuous meal one can only desire and dream of a good night sleep waiting for what nature has in its store for the next day.

With lots of options and ample time one can visit the bauxite mines and manohar-mansantoshgad forts. The forts now in total ruins even under the archeological survey of India are worth the excursion. Though not much of the fort is existent today it can still evoke nostalgia of the past days. The ever expansive Arabian Sea can be seen over from the edges giving a sense of eternity. The bauxite mines 10 kms away has its own aesthetic beauty. Still being mined it is one of the sources of bauxite in India. The botanical gardens are also a free to roam place with a variety of flora around. If one is lucky enough one can see the unusual flowering of KARVI, a flower said to be blooming every 8 years post monsoon. All in all amboli bags its well deserved place on a tourist’s list especially those who are well saturated of mall roads, ropeways, trinket vendors and cheap shops trying to sell their items in the disguise of souvenirs.

NAVIGATOR

Getting there.: Thanks to a well connected transport system Amboli can be accessed by air, road as well as rail. The nearest airports are Belgaum 60 km and Dabolim, Goa 120 km. The best way to reach Amboli is by Kokan railways a man made marvel cut through the Western Ghats. Nearest railhead is Sawantwadi Road around 30 km from Amboli. One can also access via Belgaum station (60 km) or Kolhapur (110 km). By road it takes longer to traverse the ghat section. Well tarred roads extend up to Mumbai (545 km, via chiplun-ratnagiri), Pune (360 km, via satara-kolhapur) and goa (64 km via sawantwadi) in each direction. Regular buses and private taxis and auto rickshaws stroll to and fro sawantwadi and amboli.

Shop and eat: Amboli is famous for its sawantwadi wooden dolls and one can take an assortment of the same to decorate their living space. Malvani cuisine is a must have. Even mutton and chicken prepared in their own style leaves behind your typical Punjabi and Afghani tastes. Fish preparations are the specialty and fish ranges from Pompfret, bangda, surmai and many other of creek origins. Sol Kadi an appetizer is the surely to be had.

Where to stay: Hotel green valley resort, Whistling woods, Hotel JRD international and MTDC resort are the high end hotels and resorts providing all basic and luxurious facilities. The other basic lodges are numerous and lined along the state highway. Some of the them are Hotel sailee, Hotel vrindavan etc.

When to be in amboli: Unlike other hill stations amboli should be visited in winter post monsoons. This is the peak time for the full volume of waterfalls and also pleasant sea breeze with outstanding uninterrupted views.